How to Choose the Right Drill
By Holt C. Bridger · Updated May 27, 2026 · 12 min read
TL;DR
- Most people need — an 18V/20V cordless drill/driver. It handles 90% of home tasks.
- Key spec to check — brushless motor, at least 300 in-lbs torque, ½" chuck, and 1,500+ RPM.
- Sweet spot — $100–170 for a drill/driver kit (tool + battery + charger) from DeWalt, Makita, or Milwaukee.
- Consider an impact driver instead if you mostly drive long screws and lag bolts rather than drill holes.
The 5 Types of Drills
Not all drills are created equal. Each type is designed for a specific job, and picking the wrong one wastes money and time. Here is what each one does best.
Corded Drill
Consistent power with no battery to charge. Best for extended sessions where you need uninterrupted power.
- Best for: repetitive drilling, workshop use, mixing mud or paint
- Limitation: tethered to an outlet
- Price range: $40–120
Cordless Drill/Driver
The most versatile and popular type. Runs on rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. Good for drilling and driving.
- Best for: general homeowner use, furniture assembly, hanging fixtures
- Limitation: runtime limited by battery
- Price range: $50–300 (kit)
Hammer Drill
Adds a percussion mechanism that hammers while spinning. Essential for drilling into concrete, brick, and stone.
- Best for: masonry, concrete anchors, tile backer board
- Limitation: overkill for wood and drywall; heavier
- Price range: $80–300
Impact Driver
Uses rotational impacts to deliver much higher torque than a drill. Designed for driving fasteners, not drilling holes.
- Best for: long screws, lag bolts, deck building, heavy fastening
- Limitation: no adjustable clutch; not ideal for precision drilling
- Price range: $60–280
Rotary Hammer (SDS)
The heavy-duty cousin of the hammer drill. Uses an SDS chuck system and a piston-driven hammer mechanism that delivers far more blows per minute. If you are drilling dozens of holes into concrete or chipping tile, this is what you want.
- Best for: professional masonry work, anchoring into concrete, chiseling
- Limitation: expensive, heavy, requires SDS-specific bits
- Price range: $150–600+
Key Specs to Compare
When comparing drills, these are the numbers that actually matter. Ignore marketing fluff and focus on these five specs.
| Spec | What It Means | What to Look For |
|---|---|---|
| Voltage | Power potential of the battery platform | 12V for light tasks, 18V/20V for most users, 36V+ for heavy duty |
| Torque (in-lbs) | Rotational force for driving screws and drilling | 300+ in-lbs for homeowner, 500+ for prosumer, 1,000+ for impact drivers |
| RPM (no-load speed) | How fast the chuck spins | Two-speed gearbox: 0–500 RPM (driving) and 0–1,800+ RPM (drilling) |
| Chuck Size | Maximum bit diameter the drill can accept | ½" is standard and accepts all common bits; ⅜" limits you to smaller bits |
| Weight | With battery installed — affects fatigue during overhead work | Under 3.5 lbs for general use; under 2.5 lbs for 12V models |
Brushed vs Brushless Motors
This is the single biggest differentiator in modern cordless drills. Here is what it means in practice.
Brushed Motor
Uses physical carbon brushes that contact the motor's commutator to transfer electricity. This creates friction, heat, and wear over time.
- Lower cost ($30–50 cheaper than equivalent brushless)
- Brushes wear out after 500–1,000 hours of use
- 15–25% less efficient → shorter battery runtime
- More heat under load
- Perfectly fine for occasional use
Brushless Motor
Uses an electronic controller instead of physical brushes. No friction from brushes means less heat, more efficiency, and longer motor life.
- 20–30% more runtime per battery charge
- Motor lasts significantly longer (no brush wear)
- Smarter power delivery — adjusts torque automatically
- More compact and lighter for the same power
- Worth the premium if you drill regularly
The Practical Takeaway
If you use your drill more than twice a month, go brushless. The runtime improvement alone is worth it — you will charge your battery half as often. If you only pull the drill out for occasional picture hanging, a brushed model saves money with no real downside.
Budget Tiers: What You Get at Each Price Point
Entry-level corded drills or very basic cordless kits. Expect brushed motors, plastic chucks (on the cheapest models), one speed, and shorter warranties. Fine for assembling furniture, hanging pictures, and occasional pilot holes.
- Brands: Black+Decker, basic Worx, store-brand corded
- Typical specs: ⅜" chuck, single speed, ~200 in-lbs torque
- Limitation: not built for regular or demanding use
This is the sweet spot. You get a two-speed gearbox, ½" metal chuck, decent battery (1.5–2.0 Ah), and a reliable charger. Some models in this range are brushless. Ideal for weekly homeowner tasks.
- Brands: Ryobi (brushless line), Ridgid, Porter-Cable, entry DeWalt/Makita kits
- Typical specs: ½" chuck, two-speed, 300–500 in-lbs, brushless available
- What to look for: brushless motor, 2.0 Ah battery included, 3-year warranty
Brushless motors, better battery cells (3.0–5.0 Ah), metal gearboxes, and stronger warranties. These drills handle daily use without complaint. If you are a serious DIYer, this tier will last 10+ years.
- Brands: DeWalt 20V XR, Makita 18V LXT, Milwaukee M18
- Typical specs: brushless, 500–700+ in-lbs, 3-speed on some models, all-metal gearbox
- What to look for: bare tool deals if you already own batteries from the platform
Top-tier models with maximum torque, advanced electronics (thermal protection, load monitoring), premium battery platforms, and specialized features like adjustable torque settings via app. For tradespeople who make a living with the tool.
- Brands: Milwaukee M18 Fuel, DeWalt 20V PowerDetect, Makita XGT 40V
- Typical specs: 700–1,200+ in-lbs, advanced electronics, premium batteries (5.0–8.0 Ah Forge/High Output)
- Limitation: overkill for homeowner use, battery platform is expensive to enter
Top Picks by Use Case
| Use Case | Best Type | What to Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Apartment dweller | 12V cordless drill | Compact, lightweight, enough power for furniture and fixtures |
| Homeowner (general) | 18V/20V cordless drill kit | Brushless, ½" chuck, 2.0 Ah battery — the do-everything tool |
| Deck builder | Impact driver + drill combo | Impact for driving, drill for pilot holes — both on same battery platform |
| Basement finisher | Hammer drill + impact driver | Hammer mode for concrete anchors, drill mode for wood/metal framing |
| Mechanic/DIY auto | Cordless drill + right-angle adapter | Tight spaces need compact size; metal drilling needs lower speeds |
| Professional contractor | Premium 18V/20V brushless | DeWalt XR, Milwaukee Fuel, or Makita LXT — pick your ecosystem and stay |
Compare Drills Head-to-Head
See how specific models stack up in real tests:
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of drill do I need for home use?
For most homeowners, a 12V or 18V/20V cordless drill/driver handles 90% of tasks: hanging shelves, assembling furniture, drilling into wood and drywall. Skip the hammer drill unless you regularly drill into concrete or masonry.
Is a brushless drill worth it?
Yes for regular use. Brushless motors deliver 20–30% more runtime per charge, last longer, and produce less heat. If you use your drill more than a few times per month, the $30–50 premium pays for itself in battery life and longevity.
What is the difference between a drill and an impact driver?
A drill uses steady rotational force and has an adjustable clutch for precise torque. An impact driver uses rotational impacts to drive screws and fasteners with much more force but less finesse. Use a drill for drilling holes and light driving; use an impact driver for long screws, lag bolts, and heavy fastening.
How much should I spend on a drill?
Under $50 gets a basic corded or low-end cordless drill for occasional tasks. $50–150 buys a solid cordless drill with a battery for regular homeowner use. $150–300 gets you a prosumer brushless model with better build quality and runtime. $300+ is professional territory with maximum power and durability.
Do I need a hammer drill?
Only if you drill into concrete, brick, or stone. A hammer drill adds a percussion mechanism that chips away at masonry. For wood, metal, and drywall, a standard drill is better because hammer mode can damage those materials.
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Holt C. Bridger
Master Carpenter · Tool Testing Specialist · 18yr Construction Experience
Holt spent 18 years in residential and commercial construction before transitioning to full-time tool testing and reviews. He has hands-on experience with hundreds of power tools across every major brand and battery platform. His comparisons focus on real jobsite performance — not spec sheets.
About Holt & ToolRecon →